Dirtydubbers Resto Corner MK2 Jetta 8v GTI.

Awesome attention to detail mate.. had no idea those flaps even existed!!
Staying locked on for the next installment!

Mozza wrote:I so glad you have just done this bit as i need to do it to my jetta, as the the control flaps the cogs they move on are they easy enough to come out! as mine has broken

Sorry Mozza i have only just spotted that i missed your reply . To be honest all the times we have fixed these in the past we have had the box out. They can be removed with little effort just be a little gentle and ease them out evenly from both sides then when you pop them back in make sure you note the alignment marks on each cog. Hope this helps.

Hi everyone again sorry for the delay. We have been up to quite a bit on the jetta so the updates should start coming thick and fast from now on. As you might remember one of the problems with the car before resto was the gearbox, well after closer inspection we found that the diff had started to fail and the fifth gear had started to work itself free so in short not worth a pot to ......... So it just so happened we had this instock. A 2Y gearbox from a 2.0litre Mk3.

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This gearbox had its fair share of leaks but it was a good usable gearbox that we knew drove well when it was in a car.

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Jettafan's budget couldnt stretch to a total rebuild of his old gearbox so its the next best thing and after all if the gearbox does give in the future, well we can just pop another one in . So first of all we cant put that crusty old cog box in that nice clean bay so first a good clean up.

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After about 10hours we had a clean and mostly stripped box. Didnt scrub up to bad we think. The idea is to overhall the box as much as possible without costing JF a small fortune. The gearbox is the most forgotten part of any build/upgrade and we plan to show you that even some basic replacement parts can help an older good secondhand box last the way.

We really want to give the best job we can for the budget we have, so we simply cant leave it like that so before all the new bits could go on we did this.

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Yep youve guessed it a good coat of Acid etch. When painting alley it is really important to use a good Acid etch primer as other types will just crack and flake off in no time.

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Thats getting there . Well after a chat with JF it was decided that the original colour choice of red would have been just toooooo bright so JF left it in are hands to pick a more tactile colour. After much thinking my business partner Matt come up trumps with the following colour and i have to say that i think its SPOT ON! but thats just me im weird like that . What do you guys think???.

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The paint we used is a high gloss marine grey enamel we chose this as it will be easy to touch up if it gets chipped and is tuff enough to clean with a preasure washer if needed.

Anyone that has tried to do this will know that its bloody hard to get the paint in all the little nooks and crannys but we did it in the end this is what it looked like after 5 to 6 coats.

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Sorry for the amount of pics but it looked so good we could have licked it! .

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We had to leave box for a week to dry as the paint was just so thick. The eagle eyed among you may have spotted that the gearbox casing bolts were lose this was done as we dont like the look of painted bolts. These were undone just a little, before paint so that we could get a better finishing look when the new bolts get fitted. We were very carefull not to move the box or break the seal during paint as we didnt want to contaminate the internals of the box in any way. This leads us to the second step to detailing this box the casing bolts.

The old ones and the new stainless items.

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Side by side.

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And after.

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Well thats its for tonight i will try to keep these coming a bit faster. till the next time cheers the DD Team.

Its at this point i really feel i have to mention my local parts guys at Peter Cooper VW in Chichester they have been top notch to us on this project and havent let us down at all!. They really helped us with the gear box stuff and it took quite a few phone calls and trips down to see them to get all the new part numbers for the various bits and bobs we needed. It was a bit tricky to get the right stuff as alot of the part numbers had been superseded by totally different numbers. Anyway after there help and some serious time spent on Etca we ended up with this little lot.

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This along with some new stainless steel stuff.

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A detailed rear gearbox mount support and clutch arm.

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Oh and the drive shaft flanges and other bits.

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First thing was the clutch arm.

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Then old oil seal out.

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Old and new side by side.

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New seal in.

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New thrust bearing in.

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Its really important to keep things nice and clean when working on your gearbox as you dont want any dirt getting in and stuffing up all your hard effort (sorry not to sound like im teaching you to suck eggs ).

Next we carefully loaded the clutch arm in place then the finishing touch the end cap (with the logo the right way up of course).

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We really hope that Jettafan likes the colours weve gone for as he has no idea what it looks like till he looks at this on here . We chose L90E Alpine white to match the other items we detailed in the bay earlier in the build so this should make sence when its all back in the car......... I think??

Its just a quick one today so i will leave you with a final pic of the end of the gearbox finished. Cheers.

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Looks grate bud, given me some ideas for my gti when i get round to putting my syncro box and abf in it. Can most peps do the seal kit at home or would it be better to get a gear box specalist to give it a full over hall?

Thanks bud. The seals can be done at home i intend on showing everyone how to do it in this tread.
As for overhall of the box i would suggest taking it to a gearbox specalist the tools needed to do the internals cost a small arm and a leg let alone parts aswell you should be looking at around 600 to 800squids for a syncro box...... I think?.

K thanx. It looks ok and aparently is fine but would like it rebuild because of the diff pins and that its going to be bolted to a abf block thats going to tweaked just a tad lol.

Sounds like fun. Are you doing a thread on it?

Right on with the show. Next seal on the list is the selector shaft oil seal.

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I know you can buy tools for this sort of thing but i wanted to show people how to do this at home with basic tools and a splash of care and patience. So hear goes first removing the old seal. Drill some 1mm holes in the old seal take care not to drill to far through the seal as you never know whats on the other side. Now carefully wind two screws into the holes like this again dont wind them to deep just the tips.

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Then we popped a nut onto the top of the selector shaft to protect the threads. Finally we used a hammer to lever out the seal (sorry for the pic quality).

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Old and new.

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Before fitting your seals its a good idea to fill the backside of them with grease like this.

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This stops the a little tension spring thats fitted inside the seal from poping out walst its being installed plus it helps to locate the seal aswell. With this seal a 22mm socket was used to tap it home.

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New seal fitted.

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Now all thats left is the dirt guard this is the original one just sent through the dishwasher for good measure.

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Now the two seals in the bell housing these can be done the same way.

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After.

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Then we can turn are attention to the drivshaft output flange seals. You can buy these seals as a kit or on there own but the kit comes with new "C" clips for the flanges themselves so worth the extra doller.

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So out with old these can just be levered out but be carefull not to mark the outer mounting face.

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You can just tap the outer seals home with a chunk of timber again just fill the back of the seal with grease. Once there in you can pop the drive flanges, "C" clips and centre seals in place and thats that done.

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We also had a play about with the selector preload service cap we didnt want this to be the same colour as the gearbox so we polished it a bit. Plus we refitted the little black breather cap and timing hole cover aswell. Tip to removing this cap and the timing hole cover if you dont have the right tool is the head of a 27mm bolt will fit, this will save the damage you see here on this one. Looks like someone has been here before us oh well .

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Slowly getting there, the start motor bush next for this just nibble away at the side of the old one with a small screwdriver again being carefull of the gearbox casing. Old and new side by side.

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And new one in place.

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Now the rear gearbox mounting plate with new stainless steal bolts.

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And the gear linkage arms with new bits.

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That brings me to the end of this update we hope we have helped people in the future with the seals on there gearbox or anyother seal like this on your engine the "Two screw" method can work with all manner of engine seals but just dont be tempted to try and lever a seal out with a screwdriver if it wont come out then soke it in Plusgas or GT85 and walk away have a cupper or a coke and a smile and try again with a fresh head . Well for now we will catch you all on the flip flop and thanks for reading. Oh again all questions or comments welcome.

Ill probaly put the gti build thread on another forum im on in my local area as its not a jetta but mayput some pics up of alx when i get round to putting some up of the jetta.

Post up a link i would love an ogle.

Well just another quick one today, all we needed to do is finish off bolting a few things to the box and we were done so here it is after the rear gearbox mount has been fitted along with the mount support. All the nuts and bolts we could replace have been replaced with stainless and we even detailed the reverse switch and gear linkage bolts. So here it is.

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We are really happy with how this turned out we were not sure on the colour choice but we love it now, we really hope that JF does too after all he did leave it upto us, you stupid boy!!!! You know what happens when you let us off the lead!!! .

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And just a hand full more for good measure (sorry cant help myself).

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We hope you like??? Next is the engine AT LAST!!!

Alex, you are such a tart!
The gearbox looks amazing, could you do me one, but put a glass top on it, and i'll use it as a coffee table... Awesome work - will try and get over for a look in the next week.

Dirtydubber wrote:Post up a link i would love an ogle.

Will do.Would a g60 clutch fit a synro box its not out of a rallye

The box looks grate cant wate to see what its going to be like at the end should be worthy of a mag or two lol

Cheers mate. look forward to catching up. As for the coffee table idea ive still got toms old outer casing so your on! I will nock it up next week some time! Are you sure that connie wont mind????

glbootboy wrote:

Dirtydubber wrote:Post up a link i would love an ogle.

Will do.Would a g60 clutch fit a synro box its not out of a rallye

I think there may be a input shaft size difference but dont quote me on that???? I think the input shaft on a G60 is the same as a 2y 2.0 and the syncro is a bit larger still? or is it the same as a PB i cant quite remember but anyway if you have a G.S.F near you ask if they have got them on the shelf so you can check the size of the splined hole in the middle of the friction plate. Hope that helps in some way???

Right well as promised the next stage the motor!!!! Sorry it hasnt been sooner my pc is playing up at the moment so please bare with me.

The requirements that were set for us by Jettafan were simple he wanted an engine upgrade that would look stock, wouldnt cost the earth to fit or run and it had to be something that would be easy to get parts for in the future. It also had to keep the car in the realm of a drivers car after all this was going be a daily so racking up the mileage with ease was a must. We talked for months about a possible VR or 20V but at the end of the day the restoration of the car was as high on the list as the engine so something a little more simple was the order of the day. In short we all agreed that a 2L tall block conversion would be the answer. This would give Jettafan a little more torque and BHP over the old unit but also give him a great engine to tune up later on (in the form of a turbo of some kind). This conversion seems to be making a come back of late and for a long time was the forgotten engine of choice mainly because of the all the 20V that have hit the streets over the last few years but we still think this is a great engine upgrade as it doesnt really affect the car in anyway so the vehicle can be returned back to standard in the future with relative ease. So there has been a few people asking advice on this so i will shut up Jabbering and get on with it......

The new engine well kind of???

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This is a 2.0 from a mk3 GTI 8v there are so many different 2L to chose from but a couple of these will be alot easier to fit in the long run. This is a 2E coded block that has been serviced by a VW dealer its hole life and it shows. There was nothing wrong with it when it was removed so its perfect for the job. Really we could have just popped her right in there but here at DD we dont take the easy route so its going to get a good seeing to . First things first a strip down and a close inspection to check for wear.

This is the patient on the opperating table and as we suspected its very clean in there.

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So time to get it all out of there .

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In all honesty if a block like this isnt smoking or banging its arse off then you can leave the internals alone but we need this motor to have a long service life and put up with extra tuning at a later date so it would be foolish to just expect it to but up with it so its having a total rebuild. Well thats its for now so if you have any questions then please dont hesitate to ask and we will try to be back with more update as soon as... Cheers guys and girls.

Dirtydubber wrote:

glbootboy wrote:

Dirtydubber wrote:Post up a link i would love an ogle.

Will do.Would a g60 clutch fit a synro box its not out of a rallye

I think there may be a input shaft size difference but dont quote me on that???? I think the input shaft on a G60 is the same as a 2y 2.0 and the syncro is a bit larger still? or is it the same as a PB i cant quite remember but anyway if you have a G.S.F near you ask if they have got them on the shelf so you can check the size of the splined hole in the middle of the friction plate. Hope that helps in some way???

Ok thanx for that ill give them a try. shold have the money for one next week so should try and get then engine and box in soon

Im really sorry for the lack of updates of late but ive only just had my Pc fixed as it decided to scrub off loads of my photos which included the pics of the Jetta but we are back in business now so i will be back very soon to try and catch you all up with were we are now. Till then again very sorry for the delay.

Right everyone sorry for the long wait it turns out that if you run Windows XP and you make your file names to long then Windows wont allow you to view the last file in the chain! in fact you wont be able to do anything with it let alone view it! So a small problem that caused a none computer type person like myself a gargantous heart attack when i couldnt see the photos of the jetta anymore . But thanks to some friends and family im back on track but i am going to have to play catch up in a big way so here goes!!

After we stripped the 2e tall block it was time to check it over. We knew that the engine was in good shape because we drove the mk3 it came from but its always a good thing to take a closer look.

This is the crank close up, looking good so far.

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All good with no scratching around the oil ways. The shells had worn very well they hadnt even worn through the fist stage of metal.

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Now the cylinder bores.

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These looked fine so we are a go for a rebuild! .

First step a total clean of that rusty block. Well to be honest this wasnt a bad block for rust so to start the process a simple wire brush on the angle grinder will do. A tip at this point if your doing this kind of thing at home then always concider the fact that dust and bits of debris will work there way into your engine so unless you have a cleaning tank or a means of blowing the block out after your done then tread carefully. After the wire brush we used a rust gell this was applied in three coats each time working it in to lift the rust.

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After about 24hours and alot of degreaser it looked a bit like this.

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Next stage is to seal the block up ready for paint. Again its important to stop any paint from getting into the block, even paint can congeal in oil and block oil ways later on .

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If were totally honest we havent come across a modern paint that will really last for any serious lenght of time but if you want the best results you can its always best to put on a primer first and guess which one were going with?????

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Ye old acid etch.

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Then a good thick coat of satin black.

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Before :

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after :

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Before :

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After :

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Now that dirty horrible job is done we will have to wait 48 hours till this stuff dry's but it will cope with temps upto 500 degrees!! Then we can get some of these bits back in.

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The shopping list is a tad on the large side for this rebuild. As we've mentioned before Jettafan wanted this car as a daily so this engine must be built to take on mileage so pretty much everything is new but we shall cover this is we go through the rebuild. Will be back soon promise.

The more i see this the more i have the urge to hand mine over to you to let you bring her back to her former glory.

I think im going to have to speak to you about a rebuild

As always top workmanship and keep them updates rolling in for your avid fans

Thanks again for your ever so kind words chap. If theres anything we can help with in the future no matter how big or small just let us know we would be glad to help. On the updates front i will get on with one right now. Ive got major catching up to now dam you Bill gates!!!

Inspiring work as always bud can't wait to see the finished car at a show

Right then now that the block's had time to dry we can start to put it back together. If youve never done this kind of thing before then four simple rules apply 1) A good engine rebuild book is a great help. 2) Plenty of engine oil on everything as you go (the same oil you are going to run the engine on, in this case 10w40 part synthetic). 3) Keep you, your tools and the engine totally clean at all times!!. 4) Get a good torque rench and use it on everything!. Go on have a go whats the worst that could happen!. First things first a rehone. It didnt really need much so just i quick one to take off any staining from the cleaning gell and any high/low spots in the cylinder walls. This is what it looked like finished.

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Then to change the jack/intermediate shaft bearing shells. This is the shaft that runs through the centre of the engine and drives the dizzy and i suppose in-turn the oil pump, also a fuel pump if you have a carb fed lump. Not alot of people change these but we had a gut feeling on this one dont ask us why! It wasnt till we got them out that we spotted this.

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Note the wear/damage on the top lip of the shell on the left. We didnt spot this untill we removed the old shell because it was out of view. We thought at first that we had damaged the shell removing it but on closer inspection we noticed that oil had stained the shell inside the damaged area. The only explaination we have for this kind of damage is that the engine may have been violently stalled at some point?!. It just goes to show sometimes your best off going with your gut!! First shell to be replaced was the inner one near the dizzy couldnt really take any pics of that so heres the outer one going in.

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After this we can refit the oil pressure release jets. These were cleaned and pressure tested first.

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With these torqued up we can move onto the crank and pistons always the best bit for me! This is the crank cleaned and ready to go back in.

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We could have gone a bit further with this and put a lightened/balanced crank in but we just cant over load Jettafan's already swelling budget so it will remain standard...... For now hoooowaah hahahaha!. First the new shells like we said before plenty of oil.

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Next the inner and outer end plates with new oil seals and gaskets.

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Oh and the end cap and oil seal for the intermediate shaft. With new stainless bolts.

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Once there ready we can place the crank back in, touque things up and pop the end plates back on to leave us with something like this.

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Its always a good idea as you fit each bearing end cap to keep turning the crank so you can feel for any tight spots before the final tighten. Well till the next time thanks as always for lending your eyes now im off to get a dog!! No no really i am!